livorno – salt air and bold seafood
My Favorite Gritty, Salty, and Delicious Port City
If Pisa is the historic heart, Livorno is the rebellious soul. I spend just as much time here as I do in Pisa, and I love it for its unpretentious, “tell-it-like-it-is” energy. Livorno is all about the sea, the canals of Venezia Nuova, and bold flavors that aren’t afraid of a little spice or garlic.
My “Must-Eat” List for Livorno:
• Cacciucco: The king of all fish stews. It’s thick, spicy, and tomato-based. Legend says it must have at least five types of fish—one for every “C” in the name!
• Cinque e Cinque (5e5): Don’t call it Cecina here! In Livorno, they put that chickpea cake inside a soft roll or focaccia. It’s the perfect salty snack while walking the canals.
• Triglie alla Livornese: Red mullet cooked in a rich tomato sauce. Simple, fresh, and perfect.
• Ponce alla Livornese: The local “rocket fuel.” It’s coffee, sugar, and a heavy pour of rum and brandy. One of these and you’re ready for anything.
My Personal Favorites:
• Da Gagarin: Located right by the Central Market, this is a local “temple.” Go here for the best Cinque e Cinque of your life.
• Osteria Melafumo: It’s loud, it’s crowded, and it’s brilliant. Their Cacciucco is the gold standard.
• La Vecchia Venezia: For a slightly more romantic vibe, eat here along the canals. Their seafood is incredibly fresh.
pisa – earthy flavours and medieval soul
While most people visit Pisa for a quick photo at the Piazza dei Miracoli, spending so much of my time here has taught me that the city’s real heart beats in its kitchens. Pisa is earthy, historic, and incredibly comforting when it comes to food. I have a massive soft spot for this city—there is something about the narrow streets of the Vettovaglie market that feels like home every time I return.
My “Must-Eat” List for Pisa:
• Cecina: This is the ultimate Pisan street food. It’s a thin, savory chickpea pancake, crispy on the edges and soft in the middle. Hit it with plenty of black pepper and eat it while it’s hot!
• Bordatino alla Pisana: A thick, soul-warming soup made with cornmeal, beans, and black kale. It’s the definition of Tuscan comfort.
• Mucco Pisano: You have to try this local breed of beef. It’s incredibly tender—look for it served as a tagliata (sliced steak) with rosemary.
• Torta coi Bischeri: For the sweet tooth! It’s a rich tart filled with chocolate, rice, and pine nuts.
Where I Always Go Back:
• Il Montino: The oldest spot in town. I come here for the most authentic Cecina in the city.
• Trattoria Sant’Omobono: Tucked away in a tiny square, this place feels like your Italian grandmother is cooking for you. Their Bordatino is legendary.
• I Porci Comodi: If you want a massive Tuscan platter or a gourmet panino by the river, this is the place.
pisa vs livorno
I get asked all the time: “Pisa or Livorno?” My answer is always both. They have a historic rivalry, but to me, they are two sides of the same perfect Tuscan coin. Just remember: call it Cecina in Pisa and Torta in Livorno, and you’ll get along with everyone just fine!